You probably didn’t believe me when I said how excited I was about this project. Well, the Synth Gods smiled upon me and I was able to acquire a kit much sooner than expected (…thanks, Murray!)– which means, all I had to do was sit and wait for the 3P Upgrade kit and Chorus Speed Mod kit to get to here to Reno! As promised from my original post on this, here’s the second part of the tale.
There is a lot of backstory to my Roland JX3P than meets the eye. I got a great trade deal on the thing from a local guy here who didn’t really know how to use it, nor did he want to learn. He was much more interested in a preset-only, learning-compatible keyboard rather than a synth, so between my friend Tom and myself, we got him something he was happy with that was about the same value. The JX3P I got was in pretty rough shape. Some keys didn’t sound, the Sequencer and Sens/Edit sliders were both shot, and from the interesting collection of screws holding the thing together, it must have tales to tell.
I got to work cleaning the key contacts, stripping out the old Sequencer and Sens/Edit sliders, noticing someone did a horrible repair job on the volume potentiometer recently, but overall, the unit worked pretty well. I was surprised, for the condition, the pitch bender was in remarkable shape. Roland units are notorious at having breaking or broken pitch benders.
Needless to say, any treatment for this synth was going to be in its best interest–this was not a museum-quality piece of gear.
A great guy named Isak was finally found via the magic of the Internet when I discovered how hard it was to find the slider potentiometers for the Sequencer and Sens/Edit functions. Because I discovered the Roland SH-101 shares a lot of parts with the JX3P, at least I had a few options as where to try and find them. It took MONTHS of searching. Isak and I haggled a bit, but I ended up making a new friend in Israel and getting a whole set of used SH-101 parts from him. They ended up hitting my door about the same time as my JX3P kit from KiwiTechnics.com in New Zealand! Fancy that!
Some images of my excitement-inducing parcel:

I got to work right away on the 3P Upgrade Kit and the Chorus Speed Mod kit. As Murray suggests in the online instructions, I went out and got a good desoldering iron/bulb combo (Radio Shack provided me with this one), some new solder wick/braid, and began the project. The desoldering and cleaning of both kits was the hardest part, I’ll be honest with you. You just can’t heat up this stuff too much, or you risk ruining the printed circuits on the board, damaging any chips that you may want to save, leaving behind solder on circuits that should NOT be bridged, or just frustrating the heck out of yourself. Did I mention to handle your chips properly? Ground yourself. STATIC KILLS ELECTRONICS! If any of this frightens or confuses you, call a qualified technician for your upgrade. Okay?
Here’s what it looks like before you start–you can’t really go back too easily:

Overall, you just have to be observant and thorough, and find not only the right equipment, but the right equipment that works for you. Though the Radio Shack desoldering iron/bulb combo worked good for me, that’s not saying much. I’m experienced with things like this.
Here’s some of my cleanup jobs:


Applying the chip-bed socket for the actual 3P Upgrade chip assembly is a breeze if your cleanup was thorough. The little guy will pop right into the pre-existing JX3P main board, and with a little solder flux, some soldering skill, permanently affixing the socket is pretty straightforward. One tip not mentioned (because this kit really is for technicians and/or experienced folk) is to match up the little half-circle divot in the chip-bed socket with that printed on the board, which incidentally, matches a similar marking on the chip itself: nothing good comes from installing chips upside-down! Pin 1 is always pin 1, and attempting to match the shapes/features in general helps.
Oh yeah, don’t forget to clip the W5 link on the MIDI panel. That is, if you want your MIDI and programs to write correctly. Soon, there’ll be a way to run a wire to the main board for your PG-200 programmer to work, too! That’s still being developed by KiwiTechnics… I’ll revise this post for that later.
After the socket was installed, I popped in the 3P upgrade assembly. It was a snap. Literally. I applied even pressure at all times, and since the bits that go into the socket are a bit off-canter, just be careful (Note–didn’t put my main board back on yet… I’ll explain why):

Next up, the Chorus Speed Mod. Again, same deal, I desoldered the IC2 chip from the panel board (see cleanup pictures above; different from the JX3P’s main board–it’s the one with the buttons you press and the sliders), cleaned it up from old solder, and I stuck it on the board with the double-sided tape (already affixed). One problem: it wasn’t too clear to me how to connect the ribbon cable coming off the Chorus Speed Mod board that sticks between the buttons:

Turns out, you match the pattern of wires of the ribbon cable (four in all) from the source of the daughter board to the IC2′s vacant connection holes. There’s eight holes once IC2 is gone, and eight on the daughter board you stuck to the panel: only four are used. Match those up identically from the daughter board to the panel board, and that’s the way to do it. I admit, I screwed it up, and Murry helped me correct it. The picture on the instructions isn’t too clear. No worry, though, Murray is designing a different and foolproof (Kyleproof) way to install this, so all of that may be moot, anyway.
The Chorus Speed Mod needs one more thing: the lead wire going to the IC28 pin on the main board. This is why I didn’t install the main board yet! Kind of a control umbilical cord of sorts, and must be done. I chose to solder the wire from the top of the board, rather than the bottom, in case it came loose. The particle board Roland chose to use to mount the main board does NOT like unscrewing and rescrewing of the hardware. Do this at your own discretion, it was just my choice. I have experience with circuit bending and non-standard soldering to go by.
Next to last, I replaced the stock 100R resistors to the 220R resistors on the front panel board. Eight in all comes with the kit, and they help the LEDs glow a little more steady and brightly. R84 resistor just needs a link to replace it to complete the circuit (tip: use one of your leftover “legs” from the new resistors you installed). This upgrade works well, too: don’t consider this an option. It comes with the kit anyway, so why not?

The last thing I did to the main board: a small 0.1uF capacitor that also comes with the kit, that stabilizes the usability of the Sens slider and cuts the noisiness. Soldering this as such bridges a circuit between R95 (resistor) and the ground of the Sens slide potentiometer. (I had to do this later because I had to install a new Sens slide pot…but here you go, a picture is worth 1,000 continuities):

Now MY upgrade wasn’t complete, as I mentioned, I had to still install my slider pots from Isak… a 100KB (Sens/Edit) and a 1MA (Sequencer Rate)… with the desoldering iron/bulb, a cinch. I won’t show pictures of that, it really isn’t that exciting–just very necessary as I didn’t have them to begin with. Finally! Install done!
I keep old fabric mouse pads (static-free, non-conductive, free) just for live testing boards that are free of a unit, but have all of their cables connected. It keeps them from grounding out and from electrocuting me–all better than installing everything and discovering problems. It was this point I discovered I wired up the Chorus Speed Mod incorrectly. Easy fix, stupidity on my part. I’m glad I didn’t fry anything. After that, all was good.
Did I mention now nice and well laid-out Roland circuit boards are? Everything is labeled top AND bottom, even some minor circuit diagrams printed right on the boards–just wonderful to work with.
I put everything back together officially. New screws, some almost-stock looking chrome knobs for the sliders, a super-cool new non-standard volume knob (red, black and chrome just for the JX3p!!!), and last, the provided KiwiTechnics sticker boasting my success. I needed to do a chip update via MIDI to the kit once installed, as it was released the same time I was installing. I used SendSX 1.22, (download–click here) a cheap MIDI/USB cable from eBay, power on the JX3P with “Tape” button held, send with SendSX with the updated SYX file loaded, and poof, update. Be careful with this, though, if you screw up, you’ll need a new chip. MIDI is also terribly slow as a data transfer method. Just don’t do this on a laptop with a battery ready to konk out halfway through the update!
There were a few software bugs in the 3P Upgrade that were unavoidable. Being a producing business person, you often have a choice: make everyone wait for perfection, or go for “good enough,” and wait for the helpful kind (like me!) to give you bug reports for your efforts. It happens a lot in the tech world. Sure, we’re used to solid perfection, but it doesn’t get there easily for a small company… and believe me, being it only Murry at KiwiTechnics is quite small for a company! I sent in a few things I found problematic with the current version (v1.3 was upgraded to my 3P Upgrade as of this writing) and Murray’s already tracking down and fixing the issues. This is a good sign: If the creator of your product supports you and corresponds, you are in GOOD hands… it’s a proper kind of business/customer relationship I HIGHLY enjoy.
So all in all, that’s been my experience with my JX3P upgrade. Overall, I’m ELATED with it, it is delivering on all the promised features. The ones that need some work will be fixed soon. My JX3P is already much more fun, and if you’re familiar with the JX3P editing map and how it is laid out, Murray did a great job mapping and coding the chip’s new features to be right in line with this familiar editing process.
That’s all there is to it, really. I did a lot of explaining, but it’s not that difficult. I think an intermediate to expert electronics enthusiast with a little experience could handle this in an afternoon like I did. I don’t suggest (and neither does Murray) that someone of little experience, or the wrong equipment, try this. Find someone who is willing, a friend or paid technician. Also keep in mind this is MY experience, and not a how-to. I’m no more responsible for anyone screwing anything up than Murray is for providing you with the kit to do so. From upgrading the physical parts to the update via MIDI and equipment I used, it’s all opinion–do all of this at your own risk, please. Learn first, do later. Or find someone else to hold responsible that you pay.
I will update any further happenings here, so feel free to bookmark this article someplace (…you really ought to be checking on Burncards.com more often, anyway, hint hint…) and I’ll keep you all informed!
Meanwhile, I’m going to go back and mess around with my upgraded Jx3P, if you don’t mind.
Tags:
3p upgrade,
chorus speed mod,
jx3p,
kit,
KiwiTechnics,
midi update,
murray,
New Zealand,
roland jx3p,
SH-101,
synth upgrade,
Synthesizer,
upgrade